Day 4:

Wet feet.  Today was the only non-rainy day of the week.  The day I planned a return to the dark and secret hemlock forest far above Multnomah Falls.  Except that I injured my back.  And it hurts.  I'm trying to blame it on yoga -- all those downward dogs and all.  Yet despite my limited exposure to that elusively zenlike world, I know enough to realize that it's just my own fault.  In any case, with 2,400 vertical feet of trails between me and said enchantment, I opted for something with a bit less of an incline.

When on a hike, I'm a big fan of the payoff -- the breathtaking waterfall, the devastating vista, the top of the mountain. The Eagle Creek trail did not disappoint.  The canyon walls were virtually dripping with moss and water. The raging creek was so green it practically glowed.  Fairy-like waterfalls appeared out of nowhere amidst the densely treed forest and their giant cousins plunged from the dramatic volcanic cliffs.

The day was not without its adventure.  Here and there as you traverse along the steep cliff face that plummets to the churn below, hand rails have been drilled into the rock to keep you from joining the ranks of the dramatically deceased.  Your bonus, however, is that the overhanging canyon walls are now dripping directly on you in a manner somewhat like those big lawn sprinklers of our childhood. And then the path magically turns into a ten foot wide creek where the jumping stones are conveniently covered with high water making it simply necessary to roll up your jeans and trudge on through. Keep in mind that it's 42 degrees out and your hair and feet are now decidedly wet.

But it doesn't matter. I could have walked forever.  And for about a half mile, sensible me and outdoorsy me had a bit of a spat about when to turn back. Outdoorsy me momentarily won out when I turned a corner to be stopped in my tracks just as the sun lit up a massive lava flow cliff where thousands of basalt columns had been fantastically twisted by a force that is impossible to imagine.  Sensible me eventually prevailed and four miles in, I turned to enjoy all the views in reverse with no unfortunate mishaps beyond the re-crossing of the still-wet creek and the re-sprinkling of the still-dripping walls. It was a hike unlike any other.